Welcome to the Sunday Sock Class! If you’re following along, please feel free to leave a comment down below.
Today we’re going to work on casting on for a typical top-down sock at 7 stitches per inch. I’m using Patons Kroy yarn on size 3.25mm 32″ circular needles using the Magic Loop method. I’ve found that whether or not this fits you, it should fit *someone* in your life. This is a very general, very average-sized sock. At a gauge of 7 stitches/inch, it should fit a ladies’ medium-large, and an average width man’s foot. Above all, use yarn in a colour that you like, because if you hate it, you won’t finish your project. Since I’m going through one part of the sock anatomy per week, you might want to double up your yarn and needles, and do one sock bit right after the other (or google some info on two socks at once on one circular needle). That way you’ll have a full pair for the new year!
Drag out a Double-Pointed needle that’s about a size or two larger than the needles you’ll be knitting the sock with, and cast on 51 stitches using a long tail cast-on. I like the German Twisted Cast on (aka Old Norwegian Cast on) found here: http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/cast-on
The reason why we’re casting on 51 stitches rather than just 50 is because we’re going to secure and possibly hide our join when we turn that row of stitches into a circle fit for knitting into a tube.
Move those 51 cast on stitches onto your circular needle. Count 26 from the end opposite the tail and the working yarn, and pull a loop through between the stitches. You should have 26 stitches on needle one, and 25 stitches plus the tail and working yarn on needle two. Arrange things so that there are no twists and needle two is in the back. Toss the working yarn back over the top of needle two, and slip the first stitch on needle one onto needle two to become the last stitch.
Double check for any twists. Really. Seriously. Now.
Magic loop uses a “bunny ear” approach, so you pull needle two out long enough that you get enough room to manoeuvre and work your stitches. The “bunny ears” appear on each side of your knitting.
Start off doing a k1,p1 rib pattern around, stopping at the last three stitches. Here you’re going to K1, p2tog. You can do that purl either just with the working yarn, or you can double up the working yarn with the dangling tail for just one stitch. Congratulations! You’ve just joined your knitting into a tube! Use a light stitch marker to mark your start of round. I generally use a light marker on a clasp and hang it off the first or second stitch (you can also use the tail from your cast-on, at least until you’re ready to weave in your ends).
Continue with the k1, p1 rib for about 10 to 15 rounds total. Feel free to adjust your stitches – I, for instance, prefer to start off with a knit, so I move the 25th stitch from needle one to needle two. Just remember how many rounds you do, because you’ll have to repeat them for sock #2. This is where the whole “two at a time” thing comes in handy (plus, it means you get all your ribbing done at once).
Brief sidebar: I love K2, P2 rib with a passion. You have no idea how much I prefer k2p2 to k1p1. I’ve never really liked k1p1, and will avoid it at all costs. However, if you have an even number of stitches, but they’re not divisible by four, k1p1 will do. Since we’re only working with 50 stitches around now, I guess I can cope if you can 😉
Once you’re fed up with finished ribbing, just start knitting around. Seriously. Toss a movie in the DVD player, or find something on OnDemand or Netflix and zone out until your sock measures about 7 or 8 inches from the top of the cuff to the cable of your needle. This is also great social knitting, as you can just zoom around in a spiral while enjoying coffee (or beer) with the friends.
You’re now ready to start work on the heel. We’ll get to that next week!
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